Thames & Kosmos Perfume Science handleiding

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because it was widely observed that fruit

and meat rotted and went foul when they

were moist. In dry conditions, such as dried

fruit and meat, they remained edible for

many years and did not have an unpleasant

smell. Therefore, until the 19th century,

humidity and smell were taken as causes

for illnesses. Frequent contact with water

was avoided for fear of getting infected.

Cleansing with clean towels was preferred

to washing with water, and very powerful

body odors were treated with perfumed

powders and sweet smelling washcloths.

Steps into the Present

In the 19th century, thanks to the

scientist Louis Pasteur (1822-1895), it

was realized that it was not smells that

made people ill, but rather microscopic

living things, such as bacteria, that often

caused the foul smells. People discovered

that these could be defeated through

cleanliness and hygiene. The stench in the

cities was reduced as soon as the sewers

were put underground. From that point

on, perfumes were not needed to protect

against stench and smells that made

people ill, but for enhancing the personal

impression.

Perfume — a Costly Commodity

Perfume has always been a luxury item.

In limited supply and therefore expensive,

at one time perfume was only for the rich

and privileged. That is, until chemistry came

into play. Why? A single plant produces

only a small amount of fragrant oil. For

example, to produce one kilogram of rose

oil, the almost inconceivable quantity of

one ton of rose petals is required. It’s no

wonder that even today, relatively small

amounts of natural essences cost thousands

of dollars.

During outbreaks of the plague, medieval

doctors protected themselves from illness

and infection with masks and smoke.

The Sun King, Louis XIV (1638 – 1715) of France, could also

have been called the perfume king, because he loved perfumes

above anything else. He decided on the fragrance of his court

according to his mood. Ladies as well as gentlemen powdered and

colored their hair, blemishes were hidden with beauty tape, and a

heavy layer of paste beautified the complexion. The most important

item in the court was the perfume bottle. This stands to reason

because the smell in the royal palace in Versailles must not have

been very agreeable: There were no toilets or bathrooms and the

washbasins were no larger than a soup bowl. On top of that, large

amounts of water were considered unhealthy. To please the nobility

and cover up the smell, perfume and powder were used obsessively.

... ONCE UPON A TIME, PEOPLE WOULD WEAR

PERFUME TO AVOID TAKING A BATH?

DID YOU

KNOW...

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