Thames & Kosmos Perfume Science handleiding

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Thames & Kosmos

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Handleiding

Grasse – The Cradle

of Perfume Making

Since the Middle Ages, the costly

raw materials that were required for

the making of high quality perfumes

were grown in Grasse, in the South of

France. This region is still one of the most

important centers of the fragrance industry

even today. The climate and the soil were

and still are ideal for growing the flowers

and plants required for the extraction of

fragrances.

In addition, Grasse was the center for the

leather industry at that time. Leather was

perfumed to cover up its slightly unpleasant

smell. Gloves, clothes, shoes, paper, and

furniture were perfumed. Over time, as

leather crafts began to generate less and

less profit, many tanning shops switched

to making perfumes. Perfumers and glove

makers even joined in one guild.

DIFFERENT TIMES,

DIFFERENT SMELLS

Bad and unpleasant smells were considered

to be the cause of dangerous childhood

diseases for many years. This was not

quite correct, but not entirely wrong

either. Bacteria are actually the cause of

some of these diseases, not the bad smell

that the bacteria produce. Even today,

an experienced doctor might be able to

diagnose an illness based on the smell of

the patient.

Before people came to the common

understanding that cleanliness and hygiene

were important for staying healthy,

washing was considered dangerous. This is

In ancient Rome, anyone who could afford it would only bathe in perfumed

water. The Roman thermal baths could be compared to the present day beauty salons.

The demand for fragrant substances was enormous in Rome. It is known, for example,

that in Emperor Nero’s time (37-68 A.D.), rooms were not only ventilated but also given

fragrance via silver piping.

In the 15th century, perfumes and the

knowledge of how to make them arrived

in Europe from the Middle East via the

ocean trading routes. Most of them came

through the wealthy and powerful city of

Venice, Italy. The Italians improved the art

of distillation, thought of new recipes, and

supplied the rest of Europe with precious

fragrances.

In 1533, Catherine of Medici from Florence,

Italy, married the future king of France,

Henry II. She brought the fine cuisine

and the modern perfumery of Italy to

her new country. In her time, perfume-

scented gloves were very much in style, and

anybody who wanted to be recognized in

the royal court would have to

wear a pair.

Right: Roman glass ﬂacon

in the shape of a date

(ﬁrst-second century A.D.).

Below: Greek cream jar

(500-520 B.C.)

DID YOU

KNOW...

...THAT THE ANCIENT ROMANS WERE

FANATICS FOR FRAGRANCES AND BATHS?

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