Thames & Kosmos Perfume Science handleiding

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Thames & Kosmos

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Handleiding

In France, a perfumer is called le nez, which

means “the nose.” The nose is the most

important tool in the craft, because the

nose’s keen ability to smell and recognize

fragrances is what allows a perfumer to

create the most appealing fragrances.

Normal people can distinguish about 4,000

different smells. But a good perfumer

has up to 10,000 fragrance elements in

his smell memory. The perfumer works to

develop new perfumes by combining scents

from hundreds of small bottles in his lab,

similar to how an artist paints a picture

by combining pigments together to form

many different colors. Nowadays, perfumes

work with the help of a strong knowledge

in chemistry. With chemistry, it is now

possible to separate natural fragrances into

their individual components. This allows

perfumers to not only reconstruct natural

fragrances, but also to invent new ones.

Only a perfumer’s nose can evaluate the

fragrance elements and mix them together

in the correct proportions to yield an

exquisite fragrance.

> By the way, just like great wines,

fragrance creations must also have time to

age. Sometimes they are given up to three

months to mature. During this time they

are checked repeatedly.

THE FRAGRANCE

FAMILY TREE

Fragrances can be organized into families.

A classic system was established according

to the natural origin of the fragrances.

Most fragrances are contained in the

following family groups:

> Floral fragrances: derived from flower

oils like rose, jasmine, elder, lily of the

valley, and tuberose.

> Green fragrances: eucalyptus, pine,

citrus, lavender, rosemary, camphor, and

basilica

> Animal fragrances: musk, civet,

ambergris, castor

> Spicy and woody fragrances: oak

moss, sandalwood, myrrh, cedar, cinnamon

and clove bark

Nowadays perfumers are working with

even finer differentiations. The new system

includes fragrances of synthetic origin, such

as aldehydes. This is well illustrated in the

fragrance circle to the left.

A PERFUME EVAPORATES

IN THREE STEPS

Practically all great perfumes are

complicated mixtures of innumerable

individual components. Some are

composed of more than 700 natural or

synthetic fragrances. Classically composed

perfumes release their fragrances in three

phases or steps:

The Head Note …

… is the first impression that you receive

from the perfume. It lasts only for a few

minutes, and should evoke curiosity.

RECOGNIZING, ANALYZING,

AND CATEGORIZING SCENTS

The Fragrance Circle

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