Thames & Kosmos Perfume Science handleiding

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Handleiding

THE ORANGE TREE — A proliﬁc and

multitalented source of fragrances.

WHERE DO FRAGRANCES

COME FROM?

Now you know how fragrances are

captured. But which fragrance sources are

especially important for making perfume?

NATURAL SOURCES:

FLOWERS, LEAVES, ROOTS

The majority of pleasurable fragrances are

derived from plants. Some examples of

these are listed on page 23. Interestingly,

one of the most bountiful suppliers of

fragrances is the orange tree. We derive

neroli (orange blossom) from its flowers,

orange oil from orange peels, and

petitgrain (citrusy and woody smell) from

its leaves and twigs. All three of these are

bases for many familiar perfumes.

NATURAL SOURCES:

FROM ANIMALS

Fragrant materials from the animal

kingdom are also used by perfumers. Each

material by itself seldom smells very good

and can be rather strong, but diluted

and mixed with other fragrances, they

add a special touch to many perfumes.

Today, fragrances of animal origin are

manufactured in chemical laboratories so

that no animal must suffer for us to get

access to these fragrant materials: amber

(a secretion from sperm whales), castor

(a secretion from the perineal glands of

beavers), musk (a secretion derived from

male musk oxen), civet (a secretion from

civet cats).

SYNTHETIC SOURCES:

FROM THE TEST TUBE

Nowadays, chemists can synthesize

almost any fragrance in the laboratory.

This practice began in 1856 with the

discovery of cinnamic aldehyde, the

main ingredient in the flavor of cinnamon.

In 1876, two German scientists named

Ferdinand Tiemann and Wilhelm Haarman

succeeded in making vanillin, which is

also an aldehyde. Today, vanillin is used as

a synthetic substitute for natural vanilla in

foods, drinks, and perfumes.

Aldehydes are made from alcohols

from which some of the hydrogen is

removed. The research into aldehydes

caused a giant step forward in the

manufacturing of fragrances. This is

because all aldehydes, especially those

with fairly long carbon chains, smell rather

pleasant to our noses.

The main advantages of artificially

derived fragrances as compared to natural

aromatic oils are the generally lower

manufacturing cost, the consistent quality,

and the independence from weather and

time of year.

But despite the advantages of

synthetics, the “great noses,” as talented

perfume composers are often called, will

only use the natural versions.

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