Thames & Kosmos Perfume Science handleiding

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Thames & Kosmos

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Handleiding

3. Fill the first measuring cup with

peppermint tea and the second with

chamomile tea and seal both measuring

cups with their lids.

4. Let the cups sit for a couple of

minutes. Then remove the lid from the

measuring cups and sniff the tea. Can you

smell the difference between the teas even

with your eyes closed?

> Why is this? When they are heated,

the ethereal oils from the peppermint

and the chamomile are dissolved in the

water, and the released fragrant oils can

evaporate. Unfortunately, the heat of the

water will partly damage the ethereal oils,

so some of the fragrant material is lost.

This method is therefore no longer used to

extract fragrant material.

EXTRACTING FRAGRANCES

WITH FAT

Another old method of fragrance

extraction is the enfleurage [French, fleur

= flower]. In this method, fragrances are

extracted from plants with the help of

animal fat, such as pork lard. A sheet of

glass with a wooden frame is greased with

fat. Flower petals are pressed lightly onto

the glass. The fat extracts the fragrant

material from the plant over the next few

days. This process is repeated until the fat

can no longer absorb any more fragrance.

“The fat is saturated,” as a perfume chemist

would say.

The resulting fat and fragrance mixture

is called concréte [French, se concreter

= to become thick, firm]. Then, the flour

oils are extracted from the fat with the

help of alcohol. After that, the alcohol

is evaporated, and the result is a clean

ethereal oil called absolue [French, absolu

= chemically clean, pure].

> Materials from the kit: Finalio,

measuring cup

> Additional materials: Vegetable

shortening (e.g. Crisco®), fragrant rose

petals (rosa centifolia) or lavender flowers

(lavendula officinalis) from the florist or

market, corrugated cardboard, aluminum

foil, knife, scissors, pencil, ruler, paper

towel, an old book (weighing about 1 kg,

or 2 lbs), small pots, water, jelly jar with lid

Preparation

1. Cut two pieces of cardboard, each

about 4 x 4 inches.

2. Wrap a suitably-sized piece of

aluminum foil tightly all the way around

these. The cardboard must be covered by

foil on both sides. All excess foil must be

folded onto one side.

As soon as you lift the lid, you also uncover

the secret. In which of the two cups is the

peppermint and in which is the chamomile?

When brewing tea, you are using the

simplest and oldest way of extracting

fragrances. In addition to the fragrances,

the hot water also dissolves color and bitter

material from the plant parts. Compare the

colors: left peppermint and right chamomile.

Warning Statement

Finalio is ﬂammable. Observe the

information of page 4.

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